I played in a tournament a few years ago with a cramped playing room. We were crammed so close that I ended up punching my neighbor’s clock a couple of times. Yes, they were all Chronos clocks. Never happens when we use my ugly ol’ Excalibur.
I’m not so sure. I’ve seen Chronos clocks that have not fared well when dropped. The Excalibur has a sturdy plastic case, which may withstand dropping better than a metal case.
Which one stands up better to excessive pounding on the buttons (kid stuff) may be another horse entirely. I’m guessing that, in this case, the best bet might be the Chronos touch-sensitive, with its complete lack of moving parts.
Bill Smythe
I would actually prefer the Excaliber clock display if it were just BIGGER. I have occasionally had a little trouble reading some of the information, the few times I’ve had to use one of these.
I NEVER have trouble with the chronos, whether my glasses are on or off. 
I’ve never had a problem with the move counter, either. I don’t remember it ever being off during the course of a game. Of course, I prefer slower time controls, so I may not have the same experience with this as others. It’s a little less common to get into time trouble (and experience those associated clock-handling mistakes) when you prefer to play 40/2 time controls.
Yeah. The NY Go Center bought a bunch of Excaliburs last year. There’s a common time-control used in Go where you must know how many moves you have left to make in a given time–and that information is not readable for me on those clocks.
I had nothing but trouble with move-counters and I play almost nothing but 30/90 and 40/120 time controls.
This is precisely why I got the Chronos with the touch sensors, so kids (and I am not saying this applies to your son) who learn their chess manners from SEARCHING FOR BOBBY FISCHER, bashing clocks with hands and pieces, cannot do that.
The only problem with the sensor clock is that you have to look to be sure that you have touched the right button; the push button model has a nice little “click” to it.
You’re just setting yourself up for trouble if you use a move counter.
Besides, why use two? You already have one move counter at your side.
It’s called a scoresheet.
For my money, the Excalibur wins hands down over any other digital clock. I have witnessed many funny scenes where a roomful of people couldn’t set the Chronos properly. The Excalibur is easy to use with aneasily readable display. The large buttons have a good feel when you press them. (Please let’s get rid of all the Chronos with the metal touchpad…they’re terrible). The only advantage that I see in the Chronos is that if you threw it against a wall, it would break into fewer pieces than the Excalibur. But for the price difference…you could just pick up a new Excalibur and come out even!
The flashing red light and loud beep at the time control probably clinches it.
Here’s something new I’ve experienced with the Chronos blitz (black with touch sensors): I kept losing a minute or two in blitz games until I realized it was the bandaid on my finger. I was pressing the pad, but the bandaid prevented my finger from actually touching the pad sometimes.
So, beware, bandaids on your finger can cost you time.
I’m pretty sure at least the beep can be disabled.
Bill Smythe
Yes, there is an option for Sound – Off (as well as game end off, keeping the clock running when someone flags). The light still flashes, but I think the Chronos has a flashing light as well.
Hmm… so much to say. In my experiences as a TD, coach, and player, there are unfortunately more things that I dislike than like about most of the digital clocks on the market–although several are getting better. First, when people come to me asking “what clock should I get” I respond in two ways: Adult-Excalibur GameTimer II; Scholastic–Saitek Competition (blue). Both are economical, and each serves needs for the most average player in that category. Full reasons are in my RunDown:
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Excalibur Gametimer–The official USCF clock, it is able to easily handle all proper delay settings quickly and sufficiently. It’s color and angled design are inobtrusive to, nay appropriate for,the standard vinyl & plastic boards of the weekend swiss tournament. The plungers go down and stay down, so as long as you actually press them, it will register (no multi-clicking for you!). And, as for durability, I’ve had to replace the batteries in them more often than I’ve had to replace the clocks for mechanical problems. The smallest drawback is the weakness of the plunger caps–which with repeated back-and-forth pressing (a la what young kids love to do) can lead to the buttons popping off. Because of that (and more advanced vocabulary on the clock itself: ‘adjust’ & ‘verify’, which many scholastic players don’t recognize) I don’t suggest that everybody go out and buy one. Otherwise, they should.
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Saitek Competition (blue)–A great clock, which uses the enclosed rocker-arm design better than any other digital clock [more about the problems with the DGTs below]. The buttons are large, stay down, and when up have that dull green glow to compliment the blue box (for some reason, I picture the lights going out in a tournament hall one day, and only the green glow remaining, very eerilly). However, they are easy to set, once you figure out how to get in the menu (that ‘lock’-‘modify’ switch on the bottom of the clock is much more important than most users realize). The C-batteries do make it a little more expensive, over the life of the clock, to keep going, but that’s only a problem if you use the clocks for programs where they are used constantly; for the average scholastic tournament player, who only uses it for his/her own games–it should last plenty long enough on the first set of batteries.
2a. Saitek Competition Pro (black)–A good clock, with many of the added features and settings of the Excalibur GameTimer with the design elements of the Saitek. However, I felt the added features weren’t as easy to get to, nor the design sufficiently better enough over the Excalibur to warrent the extra price tag that is attached to it.
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Chronos–Oh, how do I detest thee… If it weren’t for the large LCD displays, and the metal touchpads on the newest versions, I wouldn’t have anything good to say about these clocks at all. First, the asthetic–it reminds me of the classic “cheesebox on a raft” quote, used in reference to the first battle of ironclad ships during the Civil War. Next, this is a classic attempt to include too many options with too few controls: the different options for what will be the delay indicator (seconds count down, or that flashing hyphen), whether it will change from hh:mm to mm:ss or not and when, whether or not it will actually add that extra time when yours runs out; all of them add up to a general discomfort when sitting down to use it–unless, that is, it’s your clock, and you know the settings configuration. Also, regarding the three-button format for setting. I remember the first time a Chronos clock was left at a tournament I was running–it was left on, and no one present could figure out how to turn the thing off. So, it remained on, until I called the boy and had him walk me through its multiple tappa-tappa-tappa {Kudos, to anyone who gets the Simpsons’ reference, there}. Which brings me to the last complaint–that black button is simply one of the most jarring sounds to hear when you’re playing next to it–especially with a habitual tapper; it’s going to give somebody a twitch one of these days. The metal touchpad solved that problem (thankfully), and, I must concede, makes it the first truely silent chess clock [after all, isn’t that a goal of clocks, to NOT be a disturbance during the course of play?], which confounds me all the more when people who own top-of-the-line (and pricey) clocks, then choose to play with the audible sound when it registers your move. I believe that was the last straw for me with this clock, and at larger tournaments, I refer owners to other TDs. I just can’t take it anymore, Captain.
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DuelTimer (wooden electronic clocks)–It’s a real shame that these didn’t catch on more than they did. It was an attempt to bring a more sophisticated look to tournament play (much like those people who bring the lovely wooden boards & pieces to the tournaments). Unfortunately, a lack of innovation or use of tried methods of setting the components doomed it from the start, along with a horribly small display, and the using of expensive materials for its first generation (cherry wood & brass). Their second gen improved the display, but went from brass buttons to black plastic clickers, shifted out the yellowish glow of the brass for stark aluminium, and became more cheap by shifting from cherry with its red tones to walnut with its lusterless finish. And, the first-gens completely vanished, overnight (I couldn’t even get one on ebay within six months of the announced change-over).
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DGT (2000, XL, easy, easy+)–Why am I feeling like I’m reading off a list of which clocks are compatible with my version of ‘Windows’? Um, well, these are the preferred clocks of FIDE, which made me pay a closer look. The basic design of the exterior rocker-arm is a familiar sight to all those who grew up with the most inexpensive of analog clocks. However, it has always felt a little disingenuous on a digital clock (which, really, doesn’t need a rocker-arm at all). The 2000 & XL clocks are perfectly acceptable, not too difficult to set, and they don’t really have many complaints about them. They just aren’t used that frequently, I suppose, because of the higher cost and lack of FIDE (increment) time control tournaments. As they become more prevalent here in the States, perhaps we’ll see more of these clocks in use. The ‘easy’ clocks (you know, those four fruity colors–no, wait, that’s ‘Fruit Loops’) are fun for kids, but not really good for them. They have only the most basic of time controls, with no delay feature, and are no better than analog clocks, unless the kids are playing the majority of their games at blitz controls. The ‘easy+’ adds a delay feature, but the setting of it, well, no longer makes it “easy”.
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Digital Timer–I wish I didn’t have anything to say about these. Very inexpensive, but not worth it. They are black with greyish faces & buttons. Officially they have ‘Delay’ & ‘Standard’ modes, but it is actually an add-back method, when it works (which is rarely to never), often has mechanical problems (after only light usage, it is not uncommon for pressing the button to have no more effect on the function of the clock), and has surprisingly counted up as often as it counts down (which would be a problem with setting the clock, except there is no ‘count-up’ mode). Stick to an analog–or a pocketwatch.
I suppose that’s about it for my rant. Sorry, I was asked, and hopefully this description helps some folk.
~Korey Kormick
Senior TD; Memphis, TN
Does anyone have any experience with new Garde Digital Chess Clock.
This is NOT a hybrid clock they used to manufacture for a long time, but rather an all digital one.
I play both chess and go, so I need to know that any digital chess clock I buy has go settings (specifically, Canadian byo-yomi) built in. I know the Excalibur has these settings. What about the Chronos and the Saitek Pro?
And . . . if I already have a high-quality analog clock (a Rolland Meisterschach), is there any particular reason why I should feel pressure to go digital?
The Chronos does have Go time controls.
I used to own a Saitek Competition Pro and I do believe it does not have Go time controls.
I just bought an Excalibur Game Time II or the USCF Game Time, as an extra clock for my “go to Barnes & Noble” chess set. I must say that I am quite impressed with it. I also own 3 Chronos and 1 DGT XL clock. The Excalibur gives the best value for the dollar spent, in my opinion.
As Ron pointed out, the Chronos has Go time controls.
I would NOT recommend the Excalibur for Canadian byo-yomi. The move counter (at least in that mode) is not readable unless your eyesight is perfect. It’s too bad, since it’s a decent clock otherwise.
Your analog clock is better for Go, at least with Canadian timing. As for Chess, whether you want to go digital depends largely on how you feel about playing sudden-death time limits without a delay. Me, I gave up tournament chess for more than a decade because I will not play those time limits. I only returned after delay clocks had become widespread–then I was happy to sell my beautiful old Jerger and buy an ugly but more useful Chronos.
I have both of the newer Saiteks; the Competition and Copmettion pro( blue and aluminum) I like the blue one better because it is simpler. A also have the Excalibur. I love it, it is a great clock and does almost anything you need it to do. I have two small children a 5 year old and a 1 and 3/4 year old. I have had the Excalibur for about 2 years since my oldest was three. The Excalibur may not be as tough as the Chronos but it is tough enough for it has suvived the toughest test of all, the todler test. I have allowed both of my young children to play with the Excalibur Game Time II, they push the buttons rapidily, and watch the lights blink, and though it has been dropped and thrown several times, and batteries have fallen out it works as good as new. The plungers are loud, but as discussed earlier this has plusses as well as minuses.
I haven’t yet bought a Chronos for several reasons, most have been mentioned, such as high price, poor asthetics, and complicated. But also the Chronos was originaly developed as a Scrabble® timer called the Sam Timer, samtimer.com , and was modified for chess. As a chess player I would rather have a chess clock that can play Scrabble® than a Scrabble® clock that plays chess ! 
However, the new GX models look interesting.
Has any one had any experience with the new DGT 960? If it is a good clock then that would be further evidence that a good quality digital clock can be purchesed for less than 50 bucks.
This is a fun one to jump into discussion. I met Korey at the TD workshop at the 2008 US Open and am happy to know there are other people in the “under 30” crowd that play and direct with equal ease. I don’t agree with everyone’s opinion’s so far…the tradeoffs you really have to consider are Price, Features, Aesthetics, and Time Control. I’ve just bought my third digital clock in 6 months (Saitek Comp Pro, Excalibur, Chronos). Here’s the evolution…
Price: Saitek Pros and Excaliburs are evenly priced certainly beat out the Chronos for what it is. Easy decision if you’re aren’t sure your Fischer Jr. scholastic player will make it to Class C without quitting for soccer.
Features: The trade-offs are different – Excaliburs display seconds on any time control…the Saitek Pro only displays seconds when you have 19:59 or less remaining (DGTs have the same problem – this impacts one’s ability to determine whether an increment is actually working). However…Saitek Pros offer MANY options on how to set a delay or increment (PM me for the various permutations). The Chronos has the same setting options, and even more ways to adjust the actual display than the other two combined. Visually Chronos wins, but just barely over Excalibur. The green light on the Saiteks are still the most visible “who’s move is it?” indicator from across a tournament hall.
Aesthetics: If you want aesthetics go get a wooden analog Garde (they are friggin’ beautiful), which looks WAY better than any of these plastic metal contraptions. Besides…during the game you should focus on the chipped up shiny plastic pieces on the board anyway 
. Seriously though this one is a total matter of personal opinion and no one should ever make a decision based on someone else’s input. Buy what you like, if you care at all.
Time Control: How badly are you going to beat this clock up? If you play blitz for fun and don’t want to spend much, get a Master Quartz and watch your opponent sweat it out over the flag dance in the last minute. After that, they all do the same thing.
Bonus comments, because I’ve had too much coffee…
Setting the darn things: Setting up and evaluating Crafty as your primary analysis engine is more difficult than setting any of these. All of the major manuals are available free at http://www.wholesalechess.com/downloads/index.html. Every TD should have a print out or computer folder with these manuals. Better yet, just print out the quick reference guide for the time controls you direct the most.
DGT 960: total marketing job. Chronos already has a shuffle-generator, and it will generate non-mirrored positions as well as positions with bishops on the same color. Already that is more features than the DGT. I toyed with one of these at the US Open…the numbers are small and slim. Take that for what it’s worth…for me it means I can’t see how much time I have. If you want to play c960 but want to use a clock you can actually see, PM me and I’ll email you an Excel spreadsheet that will randomly generate a 960 position for you on a button push.
The final word is buy what you need at the time without wasting much time…then use all the saved time to study middlegames and endgames so you can win prize money…and then trade up from there.
Cheers!
I use a Saitek. Very easy to set up and not that expensive.
I’ve got a Chronos and a Chronos Blitz. Would recommend either of those, but probably would prefer the Blitz, slightly. It has fewer presets, but that’s actually kind of a good thing. You can set it for nearly as many kinds of time controls as the regular Chronos, you just have to set more options within a time control. It’s unlikely you’ll run into a time control that you can’t use it for.
As for ease of use, you can learn the basics of finding and modifying a time control within five minutes. The rest is a matter of finding the best original time control to modify. That can be a little more daunting with the regular Chronos, with its seventy-odd presets. It’s really very simple, though. Find a few basic time controls that will cover the kinds of chess you play. One for blitz and quick chess, one for single time control tournament chess, one for two time control tournament chess, that should be enough for most people. Save them in three of the preset slots. Modifying them on the spot to change the length of a time control, or the delay time, is easy. Sorry, I just can’t see why some people have so much trouble with it. And I admit it, some do. I’ve set other people’s Chronos clocks for them, but I think it’s because they don’t take a moment (okay, let’s say five moments) to think about how the setup procedure works.
Looks, what can you say? If some people think the Chronos is too ugly, you can’t say they’re wrong; it’s a matter of taste. Personally, the generic industrial appliance look is fine with me. Mind you, if they wanted to sell some steampunk version with a mahogany case, brass buttons, and scrollwork around the display, it might be nice. It would probably cost a lot more too.